Hi Spud & Chloë Friends,

Well, how is everyone doing? I have been hearing lots of good reports on the Friends of Spud & Chloë Ravelry group. I have been answering a bunch of questions in email, too. Thank you to the Ravelry forum group members who have jumped in to answer questions and help and share. I can’t tell you how much that is appreciated. A huge hug, over the internet, is coming your way.

Our knitalong is now at #3 on the new and popular patterns on Ravelry. Check it out here! Whoot!

Wendy Bernard’s book, Custom Knits,  has climbed back up in the top 10 bestselling knitting books on Amazon since our knitalong began. That is so fabulous! Custom Knits has always done extremely well, even sitting in the #1 spot for many, many weeks when it first debuted. I keep reading that loads of you are purchasing her book right now and that is so wonderful. Thanks for giving Wendy your support, you won’t be disappointed with her book. I promise.

The formula or recipe for this knitalong is based on Wendy’s formula in Custom Knits on pages 154-55.

Here is the Grape Jelly Raglan with a completed body, including the 8 rounds of garter stitch at the bottom edge. The length of the sweater from the shoulder to the bottom is 23 inches.

By the way, I had already added my neck edging at this point. I will share how I did the neck edging after we do the sleeves.

Fits like a glove! Now I’m ready to move to the sleeves.

Sleeves:

Step 10 in Custom Knits, p. 155

Now is the time to pull out your double-pointed needles or if your sleeve is large enough, a 16-inch circular needle. I used a set of four double-pointed needles for my sleeves. You can use a set of 5 double-pointed needles (as Wendy suggests) or you can use the Magic Loop technique if you prefer that over the double-pointed needles. I don’t use Magic Loop so I won’t be of much help on that topic.

Here we go:

Place the sleeve stitches on your double-pointed needles. Reattach the yarn to begin the round. To do this I simply start working with the yarn leaving a long enough tail to weave in the end later. Work around the sleeve stitches until you come to the cast on stitches at the underarm.

Pick up the same number of stitches that you cast on for the underarm when you joined the body to work in the round.

*Note: Wendy did suggest that if you want to make the sleeve circumference smaller you could pick up fewer stitches than you cast on at the underarm. She said that you could pick up as few as 75% of this number.

Grape Jelly Raglan: Place 60 stitches on the three double-pointed needles and on the last needle pick up the 5 cast on stitches at the underarm.

Needles 1 and 2: 20 stitches

Needle 3: 25 stitches

Total number of sleeve stitches: 65 sts

TC’s Stripey Raglan: Place 55 stitches on 3 double-pointed needles and on the last needle I will pick up the 5 stitches from the cast on stitches at the underarm.

Needles 1, 2 and 3: 20 sts each

Total number of stitches: 60 sts

Next, place a stitch marker at the center of the picked up stitches at the underarm.

You can knit straight or even (without any sleeve shaping) at this point or you can add some sleeve shaping. For the Grape Jelly Raglan I did do some simple shaping on the sleeves as I worked down the arm. This is up to you to decide!

Sleeve Shaping!

Grape Jelly Raglan:

Decrease round (starting at the first stitch of the round at the center of the underarm where you place the stitch marker): k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, ssk (decreasing 2 stitches total for the round)

I worked the Decrease Round at the following increments (measured from the picked up stitches at the underarm):

1, 2, 4, 6, 8, and at the 10-inch length

After the final decrease round at 10-inches I worked even (no further decreases) until the sleeve measured 16-inches from the picked up stitches at the underarm. You can work your sleeve to any length you desire. Try on your sweater as you work the sleeves by placing the stitches on a piece of scrap yarn. This will help you determine your sleeve decreases (or not if you don’t want to include them) and the length of your sleeve.

When my sleeve measured 16-inches I added a garter stitch edging to match the edging at the bottom of the body.

Garter Stitch Edging:

Rnd 1: purl

Rnd 2: knit

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 four times total for 8 rounds of garter stitch. Bind off loosely. Cut the yarn and place the end on a yarn needle. Weave in the end to the inside of the sleeve and trim. Weave in all other ends and trim.

Repeat the sleeve instructions on the other side.

TC’s Stripey Raglan: Sleeve decreases yet to be determined but I am pretty sure I will follow the shaping I did for the Grape Jelly Raglan. I’ll keep you posted.

There you have it! Gooooo sleeves!

Next I will be back with a quick note about the neck edging and then we are done!

Here are some progress shots of TC’s Raglan! Sorry for the slight blur but you get the picture. I have been a good girl by stopping every few inches to weave in all of the color change ends on the inside. This sweater is as clean as a whistle inside and out. It is so much better to weave in your ends as you go. Then when you are done with the knitting, you are done with the project!

Oh yeah!!!

She loves it!

The back is adorable. What a fit if I do say so myself. Hope I don’t hurt my arm while I am patting myself on the back. I should be patting Wendy on the back but my arm won’t reach all the way to California! Instead I am giving Wendy a virtual online pat with my gratitude.

The previous shots were from a day or two ago. Here is my progress this morning. When TC’s raglan reaches 12 inches from the underarms I will have her try it on to determine the length. Then I will add the garter stitch edging. Right now the body is measuring 8 inches from the underarm.

Good luck! Thanks for joining in.

Hi Spud & Chloë Friends,

Here are two informational posts straight from Wendy! Aren’t we lucky? Please make sure and you thank Wendy for all of her help. I appreciate her joining in so much.

The first informational section below is about her boat neck version of the raglan.

From Wendy: This is my yoke, nearly complete. I tried it on and it fits the same as my dress form, here, so I took a picture on it (lighting was better). I need about another two inches or so in the raglan length and I have 44 sts on the sleeve sections (8.8”) and 120 sts in the combined back/front sections (24”).

So, this is what I think I’m going to do (I had to measure my row gauge to know how many rounds I’d need to do–it is 6 rnds per inch):

I have 2 inches of length, or 12 rows to go before separating the body. In terms of sleeves if I continue adding 2 sts to the sleeves every other round, that’s six rounds, I’d add an additional 12 sts, or 56 sts which will give me 11.2” circumference BEFORE adding the underarm stitches.

Looking at the Body, I still need at least 10 or 11 inches, including the underarm adds to get my goal of around 34/35”. So, if I have 120 sts right now, and work incs on every other round for 12 rounds, that’s 24 added sts (4 for the combined sections every other round for 12 rnds). So, if I keep increasing this way, I’ll end up with 148 sts total, or 29.6”.

But 35” (goal) - 29.6” (actual) = 5.4” or 27 sts to add under the arms? Let’s see if this will work for me: I have 56 sts on the sleeve and will cast on under each arm to bring the body circumference to the right place. When it is time for me to pick up and knit those sts when I work the sleeves, that means I can either pick up each of those 14 sts for a final sleeve count of 70 sts, or 14”, which is a bit big for my upper arm.

Alternatively, I could probably get away with picking up 10 sts instead of 4 and come up with 66 sts, or a circumference of 13.2. Since I have upper arms that measure about 11”, I can probably handle that. Not to mention, I don’t want a super close-fitting sleeve.

So, there you go: I will work an additional 12 rounds and then separate the sleeve from the body by placing it on scrap yarn, cast on 7 sts under the arm, pm, cast on 7 sts and then join and work to the next sleeve and then repeat the procedure on the other side.

After that, I’ll try on again and make sure it fits before I continue.

Here is a second post from Wendy about waist shaping!

From Wendy:

Waist Shaping in Top-Down Knitting

If you try on as you go, you can decide where to begin and end waist shaping. But, the best idea is, is to first find out what your back waist measurement is, meaning, the measurement from the cast-on back neck down to your waist, and make note of it.

Then, you need to decide how many inches, or stitches, you want to subtract by the time you knit to that back waist measurement, minus the space you will need to begin those decreases, or shaping rounds.

Once we get to the sleeves, I think I will be able to express these ideas more simply!

From Susan: Hope you are all doing well! Have a good weekend.

Hi Spud & Chloë Friends,

Here are more words of wisdom from Wendy:

Working your first top-down raglan in a situation like this is an unbelievably good thing because you’ll get lots of help and you are, in effect, custom knitting your own sweater. I think many people did this for themselves many years ago and now that we have patterns and are pretty dependent on them, we don’t think so much for ourselves or on our own. This is why I’m so happy to be here.

Regarding raglan measurements: I use a super complicated spreadsheet that “knows” the eventual circumference at every point in time when I design. But when you work the way we are working in this KAL, we don’t know all the factors in advance, but we can plan. That said, when you add body stitches under the arm, you are effectively adding the same or “a close” number of stitches to the sleeve as well. Why? Because when you place your reserved sleeve sts back on the needles you will work around the sleeve and then when you get to the underarm section where you earlier added body stitches, you’ll need to pick up and knit stitches to close the underarm (and remember to place a marker at the midpoint if you plan on shaping your sleeve). You do NOT have to pick up and knit the SAME number of stitches. In fact, you can probably get away with picking up about 75% of them, if you want to.

So, knowing your goals of Body and Sleeve circumferences, it’s a good idea to do what I do: Make a sketch and plot out the goal circumferences and stitch counts. Trying on as you go is a good idea, too, because trying on as you go doesn’t lie, while your goal stitch counts might (due to gauge issues or moods that make you knit tighter or looser at any given time). The stitch count that you planned for may not be perfect, but the trying-on part is really the only way to know if it’ll fit or not.

Hi Spud & Chloë Friends,

Well, I am back and even better Wendy is back with some great advice for Steps 8 and 9 of our knitalong. The photo above is from Wendy and she is sharing the start of her boat neck raglan. Check out her sketch. She will look so gorgeous in the Chipmunk colorway. I can’t wait to see the finished sweater on her.

Please read below! Here is what Wendy has to say about her boat neck AND suggestions for all of us for the next step:

Wendy: Here is my completed neckline for the boat neck. I cast on 100 sts for the boat neck (which won’t be that boat-neck-ish, just wide) and worked 2×2 rib in the round for about 2 inches. Then, I separated the sleeve/back/sleeve/front into 16/34/16/34 stitch sections.

I will increase (kfb) on each side of each marker every other round, which means that I will add a total of 8 sts every other round. I will measure the raglan line, including some of the 2” of neckline until I “think” it might fit, while keeping track of the numbers of each portion. I don’t want my sleeves to be more than 12 - 13” around, and I am aiming for about 35” body circumference.

The way I will control these measurements is to know how many goal stitches I need and if I have to, do fewer increases on the sleeves than on the front/back sections. I will also plan on separating the sleeves from the Body sections before I reach that magic 35” circumference (front/back together). I will do this because I want to add stitches under the arms to improve the fit. I will probably try to end my Body increases when the two pieces together equal about 33” or thereabouts and will add about 6 sts under each arm. Not only does adding the underarm stitches improve the fit, it also keeps you from having too deep of an armhole and will control the circumference of the upper arms, something that a lot of people don’t like when making a raglan.

We shall see if it goes the way I want it to! Trying on as you go usually changes your initial plans a little, which is just fine.

BTW: I LOVE this yarn. I hope to use more of it in the future.

Susan: Please note that all of the basic steps for this knitalong are from Wendy Bernard’s book, Custom Knits, pp. 154-155! It is a wonderful sweater knitting book with loads of patterns and information.

Okay, so before we even start the next steps to separate the sleeves and work on the body, you need to figure out the bust measurement and the sleeve measurement you want for your sweater.

For example:

Grape Jelly Raglan: My bust measurement is 36 inches

TC’s Raglan: a 30 inch bust measurement

Now, I keep getting asked about what “ease” means. Here is a quick explanation.

Negative ease - having the measurement of the garment smaller than the actual body measurement so the garment has to stretch a bit to fit, with negative ease you will have a tighter fitting garment. It will be more body-skimming. Wendy makes all of her garments with at least 1 inch negative ease.

0 (zero) ease - having the measurement of the garment the same as the actual body measurement so the garment fits right to the body.

Positive ease - having the measurement  of the garment bigger than the actual body measurement so the garment is loose fitting.

You can decide how you would like your sweater to fit. I ended up having 2 inches of negative ease according to my stitch counts for the bust measurement.

Also, just as Wendy said above, I didn’t want my sleeves to go any larger than a 12-13 inch circumference. You need to figure out what would be an ideal upper arm measurement for you. The desired number of stitches for the sleeves will depend on if you like more of a fitted sleeve or a looser sleeve.

With these measurements for the sleeves and bust you need to multiply the number of inches by the stitches per inch.

For example:

Grape Jelly Raglan (with 2 inches negative ease for the bust measurement I subtracted 2 inches from my bust measurement): 34 inches x 5 stitches per inch = 170 stitches

Note: The 34 inch bust measurement is to fit my 36 inch bust.

170 stitches is the number of stitches I need for the body of my sweater.

TC’s Raglan: 30 inches x 5 stitches per inch = 150 stitches

150 stitches is the number of stitches for the body of TC’s Raglan.

Upper Arm measurement:

You want to have a number of inches in mind for the sleeve measurement and number of stitches that you will need to fit your upper arms.

*An important note from Wendy: When you cast on sts for underarms in Steps 8 and 9, not only will it add to BODY circumference, but the sleeve circumference as well, because you will pick up stitches there when working sleeves, although you can reduce that number by a bit. Make sure you take this additional sleeve width when you are figuring out your sleeve circumference and the number to cast on under the arms.

Grape Jelly Raglan: 12 inches x 5 stitches per inch = 60 stitches

60 stitches is the number of stitches for the sleeve.

TC’s Raglan: 10 inches x 5 stitches per inch = 50 stitches

50 stitches is the number of stitches for the sleeve.

Important Note: After you have read Wendy’s suggestions, above, for ways to modify the sleeve and body stitch numbers and keeping in mind that you will be casting on stitches at the underarms to compensate for any added width you need at this point for the sleeve and bust circumference AND that you are at the point where your sweater measures to about 1 inch below your underarms when you try it on, you can move on to Steps 8 and 9.

Steps 8 and 9 combined:

Count the number of stitches for the front, back, and both sleeves.

For example:

Grape Jelly Raglan:

Front and Back = 80 stitches each or 160 stitches total

Sleeves = 60 stitches each

TC’s Raglan = yet to be determined - I will fill in later tonight or tomorrow!

Now, I know that I want my body stitches to be 170 stitches and I have 160 stitches. To get to 170 stitches I will be casting on 5 stitches using the backwards loop method under each arm as I work the first round of the body. You will need to figure out the number of stitches you will need to cast on under the arms (you may not need to add any stitches at the underarms).

Wendy suggests that you can add anywhere from 1-6 inches at the underarms by casting on stitches to achieve the bust measurement you desire. This gives you a lot of flexibility. Right now the Grape Jelly Raglan has 160 stitches, which is 32 inches. I want to add 10 stitches or 5 stitches at each underarm to achieve 170 stitches for the bust measurement of 34 inches.

Figure out how many stitches you will need to cast on at each underarm to achieve your desired bust measurement and continue as follows:

Next round: Starting at the detachable stitch marker (leave it there) and at start of the left sleeve (remove the rest of the stitch markers as you work this round), place the sleeve stitches on a cut length of scrap yarn, using the backwards loop method cast on the desired number of stitches for the underarm, work across the back stitches to the right sleeve, place the sleeve stitches on a cut length of scrap yarn, cast on the desired number of stitches for the underarm, work across the front stitches. This completes the first Body round. Continue working on these stitches, ignoring the sleeve stitches, for the rest of the body of the sweater.

For example:

Grape Jelly Raglan: Place 60 stitches from the left sleeve on scrap yarn, cast on 5 stitches, knit across the 80 back stitches, place the 60 stitches from the right sleeve on scrap yarn, cast on 5 stitches, knit across the 80 front stitches. (170 stitches total are now on the needle)

Place a stitch marker at the center of each underarm. This will be helpful if you decide to add waist shaping as you work down the body.

Continue to work the body section, knitting every round, until you reach the desired length minus any edging length you are planning to add, and trying on the sweater as you go.

For example:

Grape Jelly Raglan: Work to 13.5 inches below the underarm. (I added 1 inch of garter edging at the bottom.)

Grape Jelly Raglan edging: 8 rounds garter stitch beginning with a purl round as follows:

Round 1: purl

Rnd 2: knit

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 four times total. Bind off loosely.

TC’s Raglan: body length and edging to be determined!

Important Note: For the Grape Jelly Raglan I did not do any waist shaping. Wendy is going to give waist shaping tips tomorrow!! I’ll be back with her information when it comes in.

I am leaving you today with a group of photos of the Blue Sky Alpacas/Spud & Chloë staff! These wonderful women are joining right in the knitalong with us!! I love that so much. This photo is in the beautiful and cozy Blue Sky/S&C headquarters. Aren’t they the cutest ever? Now you will understand why I love working with them so much. They are just plain fun!!

For all of their modification details, and there are many, please join them for frequent knitalong updates on the Blue Sky Alpacas Facebook page which you can find right here. On the photo album on Facebook each of these four ladies describes what they are doing to make their raglan fit them. I love it.

Colleen is working away. She is good with numbers (mostly the money kind of numbers) so this project will be a breeze for her! She is the resident sock knitter so a sweater will be a good change-up for Colleen.

Nice stitches, Colleen. Love the Popsicle colorway.

Karen is working away in the gorgeous colorway, Moonlight.

This blue will look so pretty on her.

Merri is my constant partner in crime so it is good to see her working in Firecracker! That’s perfection.

Merri is a master of design and has helped me with my math once or twice. This is going to be smooth sailing for her. I think she is going 3/4 length sleeves.

Val is my Oprah and I am her Gail. We decided this yesterday. She is the voice behind the Blue Sky Facebook page in case you wanted to know.

I think Val is making a cardigan if I remember correctly. She is using the Grape Jelly colorway.

Okay, I’ll be back soon. Good luck!

Susan

Part 1: Easy Top-Down Raglan Knitalong

Welcome! This is a knitalong to create your own custom fit raglan pullover sweater! I will be posting the recipe in parts as we work up our sweaters. At the end I will post this knitalong version of the recipe as one of the free patterns on the sidebar. You can join in any time. Please join me on the Friends of Spud & Chloë Ravelry group to post photos, chat and share our progress.

Click here for the forum thread!

Click here for the Easy Top-Down Raglan Ravelry Project Page!

You can also leave comments here on the blog, of course.

To get started today we are taking your back neck measurement and doing some simple math to determine the number of stitches to cast on. That will cover steps 1-6 out of 10 steps total. Steps 1-6 are not difficult (just take them one by one) but I have to say after these initial steps the rest of the sweater is incredibly simple.

Size: Made to fit you!

Yarn: Spud & Chloë Sweater (55% superwash wool, 45% organic cotton; 100 grams/160 yards)

Bust measurement in inches - number of skeins of Spud & Chloë Sweater:
32 inches - 5 skeins
34 inches - 5 skeins
36 inches – 6 skeins (This is the sample size that fits me perfectly!)
38 inches – 6 skeins
40 inches – 6 skeins
42 inches – 6 skeins
44 inches – 7 skeins
46 inches – 8 skeins
48 inches – 8 skeins
50 inches – 8 skeins
52 inches – 8 skeins
54 inches – 9 skeins

Needles: US size 7 circular needles, 24-inch and a set of 4 double-pointed needles OR the correct size to obtain gauge

Measuring TC's back of neck

Hi Spud & Chloë Friends!

First off, thanks for the great response to the tiny butterfly rings! It was just a quick throw in freebie and I didn’t expect the outpouring of butterfly love. If you missed it click here for the free pattern and click here for the Ravelry project page. Within an hour of posting the pattern a quick knitter already had a butterfly ring posted on Ravelry. I wrote to tell her how speedy she was and she told me her daughter would not take her ring off for anything. Love that.

I want to share a bit about the top down raglan I am knitting up in Sweater Grape Jelly. I am moving onward and upward. Or I guess I should say downward!

The body is finished. I added a quick garter stitch border at the bottom edge. My main goal here is simple and easy. I picked up and added a similar neck edging. This sweater feels so good to hold and wear. You wouldn’t believe it. It is soft and squishy and warm. I love it.

Here’s what I’ve got so far. I couldn’t wait to try it on…

Guess what? It’s perfect!!! I love the neckline and the pure simplicity of this sweater. It is my new favorite for sure. This sweater is incredibly comfortable with the fit and the yarn. I’m all about comfort in my clothes, nothing fussy is welcome.

I’ve got a plan written out for the sleeves and have started the first. I am about two inches along.

Don’t you love it when something works out so well? I am knitting on US size 7 needles at 5 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch. My sweater is in the 36 inch chest measurement size which is usually a medium. I didn’t add waist shaping because I don’t like tight clothes at all but you could add waist shaping. I am on the 4th skein of Sweater in the Grape Jelly colorway. This deep, rich eggplant/plum purple is so interesting as a color because it changes with the light and keeps you guessing.

More to come as that’s all I know for now. Knitalong plans are in progress but it will still be a little while before we start. I’ll keep you posted.

Hi Spud & Chloë Friends,

Spud & Chloë and Blue Sky Alpacas have recently started printing pattern cards for our On the Run series. The pattern cards are sent to shops along with their yarn and product orders. The cards are available for order from yarn shops, too! If your yarn shop is not carrying the cards you might like to give it a mention. The patterns are fun and portable-type projects.

Well, when I saw the most recent Spud & Chloë On the Run patterns I knew I had to share them with you here. The first one is the New in Town top down raglan! It is the easiest, fastest, seamless baby sweater I have seen. The size range is from 0 to 18 months needing 2-4 skeins of Outer. Talk about a go-to baby shower or baby gift! There is none better. I might make one in every color just to have on hand as gifts.

The largest size is 11 3/4 inches from top to bottom at 2.75 stitches per inch on a US size 11 needle. This sweet sweater is so quick and effortless to knit up. Plus, it is adorable in its simplicity. All babies are welcome, both boys and girls. Maybe you want to add some Blooms to make a girly sweater and some handsome stripes in manly colors or just keep it plain. It’s all good whatever you end up doing.

Click here for the Ravelry page for the New in Town baby sweater!

The other On the Run pattern card is for these adorably sweet baby pants called, Antsy Pants by the one and only Bobbi Intveld (the designer of the famous Baby Bobbi Bear among many other great designs!). Could you imagine coming to a baby shower with a New in Town sweater, a pair of Antsy Pants and a Baby Bobbi Bear? That gift set can’t be beat!

Okay, here are the facts for the Antsy Pants. The pattern is written for sizes 0 to 24 months. You will need 2-3 skeins of Outer. The gauge is again 2.75 stitches per inch on a US size 11 needle. These whip up in no time at all. Love them!

Click here for the Ravelry page for the Antsy Pants!

The On the Run cards are 4 by 9 -inches and are printed on a lovely card stock which makes them perfect for your knitting bag. Yarn shops are doing different things with the cards. If you are a yarn shop owner please feel free to chime in with what you are doing with your On the Run pattern cards!

Again, if you are interested in this series of patterns please contact your local yarn shop or an online yarn shop. Check out our stockists page if you need help locating a shop near you.

I am waiting for some sunshine to get some photos of my tiny butterfly project. As soon as that sun shines again in the old Mad-City I will get that project up and available for you. That’s a promise.

I am almost done with the body of my top down raglan. I will keep you posted on that project, too. I’ve gotten quite a response from interested knitters wanting to join in a top down raglan knitalong! Thanks for that and we are going to have some good knitting fun together. Can’t wait.

Hi Spud & Chloë Friends,

I want to start off by apologizing to our faithful subscribers about not receiving the last few Spud says! updates by email. We had a server change and we just figured out that the email updates weren’t happening. Well, it is all fixed and in sync and the subscribers will be automatically emailed once again.

Please be sure to check out the blog to make sure you haven’t missed any of the new free patterns and other updates.

Click here to go to Spud says!

Now to change the subject I’m calling all shop owners! You can sign up to receive one of our new redesigned trunk shows!

Our redesigned trunk shows are available now so come and get it! Request a show and choose from dozens of cleverly coordinated presentations. Contact us to host any of these gorgeous, fun and spirited collections in your shop! We are happy to send this knitted goodness right out to you.

Everyone needs a little Spud & Chloë energy in their local shop! Here is the specific contact information:

E-mail us at:  info@spudandchloe.com

Call us at:

888.460.8862 (Toll free in Canada/North America)

763.753.5815 (International)

763.753.3345 (Fax)

Write us at:

Blue Sky Alpacas
Attn: Spud & Chloë
P.O. Box 88
Cedar, MN 55011

You all know that Spud & Chloë is a division of Blue Sky Alpacas.  Blue Sky is newly on Facebook (click here) and Twitter (click here)! Please join us in these places, too. The more the merrier and we’d love for you to come along. There is a lot going on and it is a great way to stay updated.

When I see these trunk show packages it makes me want to have a Spud & Chloë trunk show at my house just for me! Don’t worry I won’t sign up. I want you all to enjoy these spectacular knit pieces in your own local shops.

Have fun with the trunk shows and be sure to keep me posted. Another thing is that on our Ravelry Group, Friends of Spud & Chloë (click here to check it out), feel free to post about when your shop is hosting the trunk show! This is great free advertising and then people can comment and chat about it.

Please note: As of June 30, 2010, the Contest is now closed!!!! No more entries are being accepted. Thanks to all who entered!

Hi Knitters,

I had the pleasure of getting together with my Spud & Chloë cohort and the owner of the company last weekend. We always have a great time together. We talked about new ideas, new projects, new yarns and the fact that Spud & Chloë has now been officially around for one year! Last June of 2009 Spud & Chloë products and this blog and website all debuted at TNNA. It has been a successful whirlwind of a year and we want to thank you for all of the support. Starting a new yarn and product line is no easy venture and we are beyond thrilled at the quick and enduring support from the knitters, crocheters and shop owners.

The other personal thank you I want extend is to all of the Spud says! subscribers and readers, the Spud & Chloë Twitter followers, the Friends of Spud & Chloë Ravelry group members, the new Spud & Chloë Facebook friends. You have made this year extraordinary and fun. I am so honored to get to put this blog together with the posts and the free patterns. I absolutely have loved every minute of it. I have people thanking me all of the time for the free pattern designs and you are so welcome. In reality, the people to thank for this blog is the Spud & Chloë company who has given me this fantastic opportunity and the venue to post and make the free patterns available to you. I think at least four of the free Spud & Chloë patterns have made it to the top 20 new and popular designs on the Ravelry Pattern page throughout this last year, which is a huge honor. This once again is due to all of you!

Thank you (the big giant kind with a big sloppy kiss)! Luckily for you the owner of Spud & Chloë likes a good giveaway as much as I do! Now, on to the fun giveaway prize we’ve gathered up for you. See that big pile of goodness in the above photo? Well, that’s for one lucky winner. Let me break it down for you!

The winner will receive the following:

Three skeins of the new Outer colors (1 skein of each): Rocket, Sandbox, Hedge.

Two skeins of the new Sweater colors (1 skein of each): Cider and Grape Jelly.

Two skeins of the new Fine colors (1 skein each): Shitake and Red Hot

2 Spud & Chloë postcards (I use these for bookmarks!).

7 new patterns! A complete set of the new patterns just released at TNNA: Popsicle Socks, Uplander Pullover, Buga Baby Bunting, Lucky Number Pullover, Flower Power Throw, Pack o Puppies, Buckhill Pullover. To take a closer look at these patterns click here!

A Spud & Chloë pattern box! Remember I did a video tutorial on how to fold the box. Click here to see it.

One trusty Spud & Chloë pencil bag.

One brand new Spud & Chloë reversible canvas tote bag!!! This is my new favorite bag. It fits on your shoulder and has a sturdy snap closure. These are not for retail but were used for promotional purposes so this is a huge get!

This is the inside of the bag! You will love this bag, I guarantee it.

This is the close-up of the S & C fabric print. Isn’t it the sweetest?

Okay, let’s get to it! Leave a comment on this post to say hello. That’s it. You are now entered. Please leave in your comment an identifying something like you name, location, email address, ravelry username, etc. Some sort of something so I can get in touch with you in the case that you win. One entry per person, please. In a few days, not sure exactly when, I will randomly select a winning comment and then I will post about it right here. Please check back to see if you have won. The winner will need to email me or message me with their mailing address.

Have fun! I am so excited to be able to offer this terrific prize package! Go for it! Thanks again for a great year (said as I am wiping grateful tears from my cheeks).