Spud says (the blog)

Archive for ‘Hats’

December 5, 2012

Visions of Sugar Plums

You may recall that we released a collection of three free patterns in conjunction with Vogue Knitting this past August.

With the holidays coming up, I thought it may be a good idea to share these freebies again and change them up a bit for winter.

A two hank wonder!

Originally, we designed the Chinese Lantern Hat in Buoy #7219, but it looks equally lovely in Sugar Plum #7221. This two-hank wonder is quick holiday knitting on size 10 (6.5mm) needles. And with the Chinese Lantern Knitalong, filled with tons of descriptive photos, you won’t have any questions as you speed through this design. This is just the quick-knit gift I need for a friend who recently bought her first home. She won’t be cold at all while shoveling!

The Details

Pattern: Chinese Lantern Hat
Designer: Elizabeth Mautz-Redmann
Size: One
Needles: Size 6 (4mm) needles
Size 8 (5.5mm) needles
Size 10 (6.5mm) needles
Size K (6.5mm) hook
Yarn: Spud & Chloë Outer, shown in Sugar Plum #7221
Link: To download the free pattern, click here

One, two, or three hanks… you decide.

If a tiny person is on your holiday knitting list this year, the Baby Mitts pattern will have you covered. One hank will make many mitts. Choose three colors and mix and match! I made these purple combinations, just in time for my friend’s little one’s first Christmas.

The Details

Pattern: Baby Mitts
Designer: Susan B. Anderson
Size: 0 to 6 months
Needles: Size 7 (4.5mm) dpns
Yarn: Spud & Chloë Sweater, shown in Grape Jelly #7516, Lilac #7523, and Igloo #7517
Link: To download the free, updated pattern, click right here

One hank wonder!

I absolutely love the easy-to-memorize lace stitch in the Rosie Headband and the shaping for the ties is ultra-clever. All my girlfriends will have one of these in their stockings!

The Details

Pattern: Rosie Headband
Designer: Jane Richmond
Size: One
Needles: Size 4 (3.5mm) needles
Yarn: Spud & Chloë Fine, shown in Goldfish #7817 and Wildberries #7820
Link: The free pattern can be found here

November 9, 2012

Sweetie Pumpkin Pie

What a little pumpkin!

Halloween and the season of Jack o’ Lanterns may be past, but it’s still pumpkin season in my book. Pumpkin spice lattes, pumpkin soup, and, of course… pumpkin pie! And what could be better than sharing these seasonal treats with the little, lovable pumpkin in your life? What’s life without a sweetie-pie?

With first trips to the pumpkin patch, first bites of turkey, sweet potatoes, and cranberry sauce, very first Thanksgiving festivities are certainly something to make anyone thankful.

Celebrate with a new, free hat pattern to keep your little pumpkin cozy! A quick knit to make your sweetie-pie… the Sweetie Pumpkin Pie Hat!

The Details

Pattern: Sweetie Pumpkin Pie
Designer: Elizabeth R. Krueger
Size: Small
Needles: Size 13 (9mm) 16″ circular needles, or size needed to obtain gauge
Size 13 (9mm) double pointed needles, or size needed to obtain gauge
Yarn: Spud & Chloë Outer, shown in Buoy #7219 and Peat #7204
Download the free Sweetie Pumpkin Pie Hat here.

October 5, 2012


The Ahoy Hat, modeled by the meanest pirate ever!

Ahoy, mateys! With 25 days until Halloween we are excited to share the Ahoy Hat! We hope this hat makes the kiddos in your life “Arrrr!” with delight. (Don’t worry, we didn’t forget the big kiddos–adult sizes are included!) This hat’s details, which include a detachable eyepatch, would make even Blackbeard proud!

WARNING: This hat will cause you to walk with a swagger and slur your words like a certain Jack Sparrow…savvy?

The Details

Pattern: Ahoy Hat!
Designer: Elizabeth Mautz-Redmann
Size: 16 (18, 20, 22)”
Needles: Size 6 (4mm) 16″ circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge
Size 6 (4mm) double pointed needles, or size needed to obtain gauge
Yarn: Spud & Chloë Sweater, shown in Barn #7518 and Penguin #7522
Link: Click here to download

Even big kids love the Ahoy Hat!

September 13, 2012

Seams Harder Than It Really Is…

Hi again, Knitters!

Neighbor Elizabeth, back as promised, to help make seaming the Chinese Lantern Hat seem easier! This is Part 2, continued from my earlier post about blocking.

Part 2 Seaming

Your hat should be nice and dry, and will have bloomed nicely. Blooming is that plumping of the yarn that happens when you wash it for the first time. Outer, as you may have noticed, blooms into the most lovely, squishy fabric!

In preparation for seaming, replace the waste yarn still in the stitches at the top of the hat with the working yarn. To do this, cut the yarn, leaving a 9” tail. (The pattern does not say to do this, but I recommend it.)

Cut yarn before threading through held stitches.

Thread yarn into the live stitches with blunt-tipped tapestry needle, and, starting with the first stitch on the right…

…thread yarn tail thorough the held stitches at the top of the hat.

After all the stitches have been run through, remove the waste yarn, and cinch the top of the hat closed by pulling on the working yarn.

Pull yarn to snug up stitches.

All cinched-up!

Secure the end of the yarn to the WS of your work by making a knot though one of the existing stitches; weave in the end. (I would also recommend weaving in any other loose ends, while you’re at it.)

Secure yarn used to cinch top with a knot on the WS.

Once all of your ends are taken care of, we can begin seaming. We will start at the very top of the hat, and work our way all the way down to the edge. The seaming method called for is Mattress Stitch, which will give an invisible seam on the RS of the hat. It is worked with the RS of your work facing you, so you can check your progress for accuracy. We will be working one full stitch in from both edges (your garter selvage stitches). This does add some bulk to the WS of the hat, but is the easiest to work.

To begin, you will need to cut a length of the yarn you washed to about 24”. In my opinion, using yarn that has already been washed for seaming makes the yarn behave better ;) . 24” is long enough to work the entire seam, but if you need to redo all or some of the seam for any reason, you can use a fresh piece. (Multiple, shorter lengths are preferable to seaming with one continuous length of yarn, that might weaken from the abrasion of the fibers caused by pulling the yarn in and out of the knitting repeatedly.)

Attach yarn to the WS of your work and hold the edges together.

With the garter stitch selvage tucked inside, find the first stitch to pull your needle through:

Bring needle tip from back to front through the first hole on the right-hand edge.

Go to left-hand edge, and insert needle from front to back underneath first stitch; bring under second stitch, and up from back to front.

Snug up seam stitches as you go, rather than waiting. The seam length can be adjusted somewhat after you are done.

Of special importance: there are two individual stitches to be worked on the right-hand edge for each of the Half Fisherman’s rib stitches – all the way down to the edge. Make sure you take these stitches one at a time, together with a stitch from above, rather than lumped together as your two stitches for seaming.

From this point forward in the seaming, we will always work two stitches at the same time catch two stitches/bars on one side go back into the last hole you came out of on the other side, and catch the next two stitches/bars.

Back into original hold on right-hand edge, under the next two stitches, and out again.

Choose the corresponding loops for the rows you are seaming, and not get them out of order. If you are unsure, you can tug the loop to see which stitch moves.

Continue seaming the edges together. Check your progress occasionally, to make sure everything is lining up.

Visually check your progress, to see if your edges are aligned.

When you have joined the last sts at the bottom edge, tidy up the edge by straightening individual stitches, and catching the loops there:

Tidy the tubular edge, evening out and securing any loose stitches.

Weave the tail into the seam, pulling to adjust the length of the ribbing, before securing.

Before weaving in the last end (attached at the top inside), check the length of the seam by trying on the hat. If you would like to adjust the seam length to be shorter, loosen the knot that holds it in place, and pull this yarn tighter. If the seam length seems too short (your seem bunches up or puckers, you can let out some yarn by gently tugging at the lower part of the hat to feed additional yarn into the seam from the top. Once you are satisfied with the length, secure and weave in the loose end.

You’re all done! I hope you had fun – I sure did! The hat should form to the shape of the wearer’s head after the first wearing or two. You can wear it down, as I do, or pushed back, in a slouchy fashion. I hope you will share your finished projects with us! :)

Here’s mine:

My photo’s a bit out of focus, but here’s my finished hat!

Happy Knitting!

~ Neighbor Elizabeth

September 6, 2012

Seams to Me, We Might be Ready to Block!

Hello, fellow Spud & Chloë Knitters!

It’s Neighbor Elizabeth, back to help with the first part of the final two steps in the Chinese Lantern Hat Knitalong.


First, give yourself a big pat on the back! After successfully navigating the chart, it’s time for blocking. Blocking this hat is not very labor-intensive; however, it will require plenty of time to dry. My hat took two full days, under a fan! Not to worry, though, it’s worth the wait to have everything just right for seaming. To block the hat, first follow the instructions in the pattern that tell you to thread waste yarn through the final 9 stitches on the needle, leaving an extra long tail attached. In my case, after knitting both the swatch and the hat, the amount of yarn leftover was about 6½ yards, so I just left it all attached. Don’t forget to tie the ends of the waste yarn together, so your stitches don’t come loose ;) .

Threading waste yarn through the final stitches.

Top of the hat, shown with waste yarn threaded through the final stitches.

Ready to soak!

Next, place the hat, along with the attached yarn for seaming, in a bowl, or sink, filled with lukewarm water. Submerge the hat slowly into the water, without agitating it, and allow it to soak for about 30 minutes, or until it is completely saturated.

Drain the water, and gently squeeze out most of the excess. Lay the hat open on a doubled bath towel, with the extra yarn next to it; roll-up the towel, pressing down to remove remaining water from the hat. Unroll the towel, and carefully transfer the hat to a clean dry towel, or blocking boards, if you have them. Lay the hat so the RS is facing up.

Now, flatten the surface of the hat, so the lanterns will lie nicely next to each other; carefully line-up the ribbing on the stems with the ribbing on the band, so the lines are relatively straight; and open up any areas that appear distorted.

Next, begin shaping the hat to the specified dimensions in the pattern. You may find your hat has grown considerably in some areas, and shrunk in others. This is normal. To get as close as possible to the given measurements, it is o.k. to push some areas together, and pull others apart. If necessary, pin your hat in place.

The extra yarn can be coiled loosely off to the side to dry. In my opinion, it is better to seam with Outer yarn that has been “washed”, than with yarn that has not. More on that subject later…

Blocked hat, drying…

I’ll be back later, with Part 2: Seams harder than it really is …

Happy Knitting!

~ Neighbor Elizabeth