Spud says (the blog)

Sleeves & Button Bands for Polly

(Finished the body this morning for my stripey Polly Cardigan! I LOVE it! Sleeves and buttons this weekend.)

Hi Spud & Chloë Friends,

Here are a few more sections you will need to make the Polly Pullover into a long-sleeve cardigan.

I’ve been asked so here is the answer, I made the body of my cardigan 15 inches long, measured down from the underarm, and then added the 4 rows of ribbing. I am doing this same measurement on both of the versions of the cardigan I am making. This is a good spot to make things perfect for you, longer or shorter. You decide!

Buttons:

I used five 3/4-inch buttons. I had to go back and tighten up the buttonholes slightly with a sewing thread and needle to make them a touch smaller. Therefore, I would recommend 1-inch buttons so you don’t have to tighten up the buttonholes later. Since I’ve been asked a few times, I bought my green buttons on the Carbon cardigan at The Sow’s Ear in Verona, WI. I have no idea if they still have them available or not. It was over a year ago that I purchased them.

Now, the other thing about the buttons is that I made 5 buttonholes at the top of my cardigan and left the bottom open. You could place buttons going all of the way down the front top to bottom. What I’m saying is that you could do more or less on the button front. It’s up to you. I usually only button a few buttons on my cardigans so I don’t need them going all of the way down.

I did a video tutorial on picking up stitches if you need help on that subject. Click here to see the tutorial.

Button Band:

The button band on the left side of the cardigan:

Starting at the left front edge at the neck, with the same size needle used for the body of the cardigan, (pick up 2 stitches and then skip the next stitch) repeat to the bottom of the front edge. Whatever number of stitches you end up with will work out fine! We all will end up with different numbers due to the fact that you can vary the length of your cardigan.

Row 1: (k1, p1) repeat to the end of the row

Row 2: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches to the end of the row

Rows 3 and 4: repeat rows 1 and 2

Row 5: repeat row 1

Bind off.

Buttonhole Band:

On the right side edge starting at the bottom of the sweater, (pick up 2 stitches and then skip the next stitch) repeat to the top of the front edge.

Row 1: (k1, p1) repeat to the end of the row

Row 2: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches to the end of the row

Row 3 (buttonhole row): Starting at the top of the neck continue to work in the k1, p1 rib as set: work 3 sts in rib, yo, k2tog, then (work 5 sts in rib, yo, k2tog) repeat ( ) until the desired number of buttonholes have been worked, continue in rib to the end of the row.

Rows 4 and 5: repeat rows 1 and 2

Bind off.

Sleeves:

Follow the pattern to place the stitches back on the needles and for picking up stitches at the underarm, including placing the stitch marker at the middle of the underarm stitches to mark the beginning of the round.

To make long sleeves with ribbed cuffs:

Knit every round for 2 inches measured from the underarm.

Next round is the decrease round as follows:

Decrease round: (k1, k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches of the round, ssk)

Knit every round until the sleeve measures 5 inches from the underarm.

Repeat the Decrease Round.

Knit every round until the sleeve measures 8 inches from the underarm.

Repeat the Decrease Round.

Knit every round until the sleeve measures the desired length from the underarm (I went to 16-inches before starting the cuff).

Next round: (k1, p1) repeat to the end of the round.

Repeat the last round for until the ribbed cuff measures 5 inches (or desired length).

Bind off loosely.

Sew on the buttons opposite the buttonholes.

Weave in all ends. Block as desired (I just gave my sweater a hearty steam and let it dry flat).

Well, there you have it Polly Cardigan Knitalongers! I can’t wait to see what you come up with. Keep me posted.

The Ravelry thread for the Polly Knitalong is right here.

I have a huge giveaway coming up next so don’t miss it!!

Have a great knitting weekend everyone.

7 Responses to “Sleeves & Button Bands for Polly”

  1. September 30, 2011 at 4:11 pm Jennie says:

    Thank you for going ahead and publishing the sleeve instructions. I learned from the easy top down raglan pattern that I prefer knitting down to the body/sleeve separation and then knitting the sleeves before the rest of the body.

    • September 30, 2011 at 4:17 pm sanderson says:

      I love that you are making it work best for you. Have fun.

  2. October 6, 2011 at 10:18 pm anne widtfeldt says:

    I am knitting the Size 2 (largest size) long sleeved cardigan. I am now ready to divide for the body. I am unsure how many stitches to do the backward loop cast on on either armhole and how many stitches I will then be working on for the body. I am not going to do the tucked waist and will use these number of stitches to the end. I think but just need to check there will be 200 sts before dividing for the body. 58 for the back, 29 for each front = 58 and 42 for each sleeve. It says though on the 2 size that there will be 62 sts beginning sleeve. 42 for sleeve plus 4 pick ups for underarm do not equal 62 but 46. Maybe I don’t understand this or technique. Thanks I am enjoying this immensely and can’t wait to wear it!! I appreciate your work and help. On what stitches do you pick up or is this considered the backward loop cast on.

    • October 10, 2011 at 12:50 pm Merri says:

      Hi, I’m jumping in to help Susie today. For size 2x, CO 2 stitches for the underarm, to add to 58 sts for the front and back, 42 sts for sleeves (on hold). Do use the backward loop CO–you are making additional room for your bust with the COs.

      After you’ve joined in the round and knit a few rounds, please try it on. I like the put the whole sweater on a ribbon. You want to make sure you have enough room (but not too much) in the arms and bust.

      Also, for my shape, after I join and knit a few rounds, I might add a few more increases in the underarm area to make room for my bust.

      The beauty of top down knitting is to try on as you go. Outer will not block much larger or smaller, so you really want to make sure it is just as you like it.

      Best of luck!
      Merri

  3. October 7, 2011 at 2:52 pm Anne Widtfeldt says:

    I read thru the ravelery knit along threads and noticed there were a couple of emails that were similar. I feel badly that I still don’t quite get it. This is the first sweater I have done in awhile – I usually don’t do sweaters except for kids – because of my non traditional shape. I am not giving up here as I love the sweater and am so appreciative of the work you did in adapting it to a large size 2x. Thanks in advance for getting me back on track.

  4. October 10, 2011 at 3:35 pm Anne Widtfeldt says:

    Thanks much to you both. I appreciate more than you know the help. I get it now after this email. DUH!!:) I don’t know why I didn’t before. I can’t remember when i have enjoyed a project more and it is actually for me :) And a sweater that I love besides. Thanks again.

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